I’ve had twenty-three years of stockings, bucks fizz breakfasts and pigs in blankets (pre-veggie days). But this year was different, I was in South Korea – 9 hours ahead in time and thousands of miles from a traditional English Christmas.
Since moving to Korea seven months ago I have witnessed a couple of its unique celebrations – Chuseok, the ‘Korean Thanksgiving’ and Pepero Day, a day dedicated to chocolate covered biscuits – but despite the usual holiday quirks, Christmas Day was somewhat underwhelming. Korea has undoubtedly adopted many western traditions and this one was expressed through gigantic Christmas trees in huge department stores, twinkling lights, craft making markets and ice-skating outside City Hall. However, the actual day is set aside for couples, far from a big family affair.
It was the first time I have been surrounded by children on a daily basis and they haven’t been bouncing off the walls and counting down the hours. Some students had plans to see their families, for dinner or church, whereas others simply wanted a day with their friends at the PC gaming rooms. The middle-school girls were sad about being ‘alone’ and the middle-school boys mocked the holiday, writing ‘Merry Solo Christmas’ in the cards they were obliged to create. Children rarely receive gifts and one student explained that he stopped getting presents when he found out the holiday-altering (perhaps life-changing) truth about Santa.
But nonetheless, it was still Christmas and my celebrations, like many others, started on Christmas Eve.
Mistletoe & Mulled Wine
Frost sparkled on the trees and the temperature had dropped to -3; it was felt very festive as we arrived at our students house in the mountains for Christmas Eve dinner. They’d ordered in Pizza and had made Tomato Spaghetti (perhaps a misconception about a traditional ‘Western Holiday’ – although the Home Alone scene makes a cheese slice feel kind of festive). It was followed with cakes and accompanied by champagne. We shared stories of our Christmas’ in England and danced merrily to Chris Rea and Mariah Carey. Charlie prepared a homemade mulled wine whilst the Korean’s watched intently. They were a bit taken aback by the taste and declined a second serving; a little payback for all the alcohol I’ve politely endured whilst being here.
The evening finished with us handing out presents to the humble family; one of my favourite feelings, only this time more special. The three children couldn’t quite believe it; opening the gifts quickly and showing them off to their parents.
It’s the Little Things
The morning was spent opening gifts from England (home comforts and little reminders), drinking masala chai and eating sweet cinnamon rolls for breakfast. Christmas dinner wasn’t a world away from the roast enjoyed back home either – we went to an American style restaurant with a group of friends and indulged on the huge buffet. Avoiding the tempting looking meat, we had potato cakes, grilled vegetables, mac n’ cheese, roast mushrooms & green beans and butternut squash. In keeping with the day of gluttony, we also squeezed in cheese and crackers, homemade cookies, chocolates and cake. Despite the absence of stuffing, roast potatoes and of course, family, the meal was comforting and enjoyed with good company.
I suppose before Christmas I felt that Korea hadn’t quite caught on to the magic of Christmas Day and replicated the ‘western way’ without much meaning – but really, the holiday is about appreciating family and friends and I certainly experienced that. Next year I expect to be back in England celebrating in the same way as usual, but no doubt I will look back on Christmas in Korea very fondly.
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