Delicious offerings from the streets of Hoi An

Along the ancient streets of Hoi An, is the vibrant farmers market; a place where women in leaf hats barter with customers and chat to locals. Small mountains of exotic fruits and vegetables brighten up the surroundings and fresh sugar cane is pulped in to juice.  Vietnamese cuisine is some of the best I’ve had – the streets are crawling with authentic food and cooking classes are widely available so you can master the local specialities. 

Part I: Street Food

I believe that to truly experience a culture you need to sample what their offering on the streets; back to basics and away from the Western targeted restaurants. In Vietnam street food is plentiful, whether it’s served from a wooden cart, grilled on a portable barbecue or comes from the little tray of sweet treats that are carried one handed by local women, it is super easy to find an authentic bite to eat. And luckily for me, most of it is vegetarian!

Street food is perfect for someone with a sweet tooth – little stalls will deep fry grated coconut and soy bean filled soft buns, large rings of sugary doughnuts and banana weaved pancakes topped with sesame seeds. Sweet potato and coconut cakes are barbecued and mango, pineapple and kiwi is freshly sliced. To wash it down, simply stop by one of the bountiful coconut stalls, where a machete is used to open one up and reveal the sweet nectar.  With each street food item going for 30-90p, it was easy to mix and match and try a few at a time.

If you’re looking for more of a savoury snack, BBQ grilled corn on the cob is brushed with garlic and chilli, or you can eat from the lively food market. Dozens of stalls are swamped with locals and tourists trying Hoi An’s delicious offerings – I indulged on vegetable wonton soup, mango and tofu salad and crispy spring rolls.

Also served as a popular street food speciality is the Bánh Mì. A stubby version of a French baguette, filled with cucumber, pickled radish, meat and a drizzle of chilli sauce. After a bit of research in to vegan options, I came across ‘Bánh Mì Phúóng’ a small establishment that serves the best Bánh Mì in the world. Marinated meat dominates the menu but if you ask for tofu, they’ll bring some from the kitchen and serve you an exclusive off the menu sandwich. Notes of peanut and chilli waken your taste buds as you bite in to the crusty, but juicy baguette.

TV Chef Anthony Bourdain referred to it as “A symphony in a sandwich” – since then, queues are out the door to try the best Bánh Mì in the world.

Part II: Vietnamese Cooking Course

We’d actually chosen the course quite randomly (after using the Passion Tours booth for shelter from the rain) and it happened to be that the restaurant was only three months in of their classes for tourists; but it was perfect. The morning started with a trip around the market with Ing, our Vietnamese guide, she introduced us to the local ingredients and bought some fresh for the day. After the market, we hopped on to a wooden boat and were taken down the Thu Bõn River, away from the town and into the rural side of Hoi An. A short journey later and across a bamboo bridge, we arrived at the ‘Triem Tay Bamboo Restaurant’ for our class and was greeted with fresh ginger tea.

(All of the dishes were effortlessly adapted for vegetarians) 

#1: Papaya and Mango Salad

A zesty bowl full of papaya, carrot, mushrooms, mango, fried tofu and crispy rice cakes. Topped with dried onions and peanuts and served with a fresh chili, garlic and soy sauce

#2: Bánh Xèo (Traditional Vietnamese Rice Pancakes)

Mushroom and carrot rice flour pancakes, cooked with crunchy beansprouts. The idea is to wrap the pancake with lettuce, coriander and mint in rice paper and dip it in to the soy, chilli and garlic sauce.

#3: Cao Lâu; the local speciality of Hoi An

Legend has it that the rice noodles used for Cao Lâu are from the Ba Le well in Hoi An. Whilst the exact recipe is only known by a few people, the dish is served in most restaurants, stalls and guesthouses – and of course is a must do during a Vietnamese cooking course. Traditionally it is served in a pork broth with pieces of barbecued pork, but ours was adapted using a unique ingredient.

Crispy tofu marinaded in sweet soy and garlic.
Rice noodles boiled with bean sprouts.
Deep fried dried cao lâu croutons.
Fresh chilli and lemons.
Topped with a rich sauce; made with soy, sugar, garlic, chilli and the secret ingredient; 7up.

Vietnamese food is universally admired, but it’s not until you’re on the streets or with the local people until you realise just how tasty it really is. I’ve taken the recipes back to Korea and will continue to explore and experiment the wonderful cuisine.