Eating with Seoul; Meet the women behind Korea’s Vegan Movement

It’s no secret that since moving to Korea I have struggled to stick to a plant-based diet. In fact, there has been a running theme throughout my blogs recently, focusing on finding vegan havens amidst a country of meat-loving carnivores. But during my short year in Korea I have witnessed a new found appreciation of veganism – with more restaurants opening, small events dotted around the city and the newly elected President promising to make South Korea a better place for animals, as well as people. As this community grows, there are three women to thank – and I had the pleasure of meeting two of them just before the 3^rd Vegan Festival Korea.

Eating with Seoul: my top vegan restaurants in the city

The soul of Seoul is the food. It’s the city that never stops; 24-hour restaurants, themed cafés and home to some of the biggest food markets in the world. It’s not unusual to find most needs catered for relatively easily whilst strolling around in the twilight hours. Since moving to here in 2016, I’ve been documenting the ins and outs of being a vegan in Korea – and I have finally collected enough information (aka, eaten a ridiculous amount) to introduce my top vegan restaurants in Seoul!

Eating with Seoul: a vegans guide to surviving in South Korea.

It’s no secret that following a plant based diet in Korea hasn’t been the easiest of things. It’s the land of the meat eating, BBQ loving, fried chicken partying. Korea and ‘vegan’ do not usually come hand-in-hand; it was difficult and daunting arriving in a foreign country with this extra obstacle to overcome. But fear not my fellow vegan explorers – Korea is not a total meat frenzy. As I approach the one year mark, I’ve found some awesome vegan havens, some quirky alternatives to traditional cuisine and a few useful phrases – so here’s my guide for surviving in Korea on a plant based diet.  

Life lessons from the North Korean border

Blankets of snow covered the ominous demilitarised zone in the Korean Peninsula. I peered through binoculars over to the other side. Reclusive land, barbed wires and frozen rivers filled up the lens. On a summers day the view from the Dora Observatory is the closest you’ll get to seeing the North of Korea – but for me, the bitter cold chilled my face as I listened to communist propaganda music playing over the whistling winds.  

Delicious offerings from the streets of Hoi An

Along the ancient streets of Hoi An, is the vibrant farmers market; a place where women in leaf hats barter with customers and chat to locals. Small mountains of exotic fruits and vegetables brighten up the surroundings and fresh sugar cane is pulped in to juice.  Vietnamese cuisine is some of the best I’ve had – the streets are crawling with authentic food and cooking classes are widely available so you can master the local specialities. 

Taking home a piece of Hoi An; the production of the iconic lanterns

Hoi An is considered the tailoring mecca of Vietnam; beautiful fabrics adorn the doorways of traditional markets, whilst the bustling noises of the factories upstairs ring through the street. Upon arrival I discovered my ‘backpacker‘ friends had spent the past four days inside the tailoring market, designing elegant (though somewhat extravagant) suits, belts, coats, ties, shirts and leather bags. 

A city of sunshine on a rainy day

Escaping temperatures of minus nine and the odd flutter of snow, we departed Seoul; (our modern metropolis home) for winter vacation and headed to Hoi An, the Vietnamese city where time has stood still.

Christmas in Korea

I’ve had twenty-three years of stockings, bucks fizz breakfasts and pigs in blankets (pre-veggie days). But this year was different, I was in South Korea – 9 hours ahead in time and thousands of miles from a traditional English Christmas.

Namsan; a breath of fresh air in the heart of metropolis.

Desperately trying to squeeze in seasonal activities before the fast approaching, bitterly cold winter, Molly and I set off into a chilly and mist filled morning – our destination, Namsan; an icon of Seoul and its distant past. It has been voted the most scenic location in the capital city and is even referenced in the national anthem. Needless to say, a big dog in Korean culture.

But sometimes it’s about the journey, not the destination. 

A hearty bowl of Ma La Tang – the ultimate comfort food.

Now that I’m approaching the six-month mark in Korea, Ma La Tang (마라탕) has become a kind of ‘home comfort’ – with no access to a nourishing roast dinner or a traditional Friday night trip to the chippy, this is the closest I’ve had to ‘proper family food’ (sounds like something Jamie Oliver might say?). My favourite food in Korea is healthy, veganish and ironically, not Korean.